Sea Kayaking in Japan

ooking for an unusual option for an autumn break? What about kayaking in Japan's Seto Inland Sea? I took a course while travelling in Japan this summer? it's a great way to enjoy nature, you escape the city smog, it's cheaper than you might think, and, weather-wise, this is just the right time of year.

Watertrail Kayaking is based in the village of Ushimado, just outside Okayama, half way between Hiroshima and Osaka on Japan's main Honshu island. You book the trail at the Watertrail office (which includes a small cafe) on the mainland, and then on the day itself travel out to Mae Island by ferry; once there, the trail leader Masa, sometimes accompanied by his wife Miyuki, meets you with the kayaks on the island's Sun Beach.

Before the trail begins, Masa and Miyuki spend fifteen minutes demonstrating the main skills? basic paddling, what to do in the very unlikely event that you tip over. Then you set off? the main challenge for beginners is moving in a straight line; at first there is much frantic paddling and over-compensation, although you soon get the hang of it. Before long, you are comfortably cruising in convoy, and there is plenty of time to enjoy the wooded coastlines and maritime wildlife.

There's nothing like working on the sea to build up an appetite, and after about an hour we broke for a lunch, pulling up our kayaks on a pleasant sandy beach. Far from anyone who might disturb us, Masa set up the barbecue which he stows in his kayak's hold, and for an hour the group kicked back, wolfing down taco wraps and fruit juice. There were half a dozen of us in the group? a couple of tourists, and some young guys from Osaka who had come across specially. After lunch, we still had time to explore the rock pools and coves of the beach, before setting off on our return leg.

By now we had the technique mastered, and it was possible to really enjoy the scenery, able to pay less attention to the basic challenge of moving straight. We passed a small whirlpool; there was some excitement when we encountered a group of jumping fish.

Altogether the waters around Ushimado offer ideal conditions for kayaking? the island of Shikoku (one of Japan's four main islands, visible at points on the trail) shelters the coastline, and the waters are much calmer than on the Pacific Coast. The coastline is varied, and the fast current is locally famous; once you know what you're doing it is easy to hitch a ride, letting the current do seventy percent of the work.

Masa the instructor is a real kayaking enthusiast, and leads trails for all levels, from beginner to advance, and for all ages. He has kayaked extensively across the world. One favourite trip was to the Canadian wilderness. He spent several weeks exploring unspoilt landscapes, the only human trace being the weather beaten antique totem poles of previous inhabitants who have now moved on. Another was a summer expedition in Wakayama prefecture in Japan, although summer typhoons in Japan can pose its own challenges. "Suddenly the wind became very strong," Masa tells us, "and next thing I knew I was running the length of the beach desperately trying to catch my kayak before it blown into the sea."

Watertrail has the Japanese licence to import Seaward kayaks (which they also sell); all equipment is provided for the trails. Trails are offered throughout the year, with different packages to suit different tastes (half day tour, one day tour, sunset trail and moonlight trail, and so on). "We really want to push our winter trails this year, and promote kayaking as an all year round sport. Our 'hot soup tours' (offered in the winter months) look like they are going to be really popular this year," Masa's wife Miyuki explains from behind the counter of the Watertrail shop / cafe, Marlboro Light Menthol in hand.

Practicalities

Okayama is easily accessible from Shanghai. There are direct flights to Okayama seven days a week. Alternatively there are various flights to Osaka, from which Okayama is a couple of hours away by train. Ushimado village is connected to Okayama City by direct train.

One excellent accommodation option is the Ushimado International Villa, about twenty metres from the Watertrail shop. This attractive place is one of six youth hostels set up by the prefectural government to promote international tourism in the countryside. Every room has an ocean view, and offers spotless accommodation in an attractive pinewood and glass environment (complete with traditional Japanese tiled roof), comes in at about 3000 Yen per person per night. There are six international villas in total, each in a specially chosen rural location; they can be booked centrally through the Okayama International Villa Group Tel: (+81-86-256-2535 / English spoken).

Watertrail can be contacted through their website at http://www.watertrail.com

For the Ushimado International Villa, go to : http://www.harenet.ne.jp/villa/

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